Last Updated on September 24, 2026 by Jeff Tomas
If you have been to Phuket and think you know the island, you have probably only seen half of it. I thought I knew it too. I have lost count of my trips here, and every one of them ended up on the west coast, with the same beaches, the same roads and the same traffic.
On my last trip, I crossed to the other side of the island for the first time. I spent two nights at Sinae Phuket, a private pool villa hotel on Koh Siray, and it changed how I think about where to stay in Phuket. I didn’t expect that from a place I hadn’t even heard of a few weeks earlier.
What Is the East Side of Phuket Like?
Most visitors know Phuket by its west coast: Patong, Kata, Karon, Kamala and Bang Tao. The east side feels different. It faces Phang Nga Bay rather than the open sea, so the sun rises over the water instead of setting into it. The coast is tidal, the water is calmer, and the beaches are smaller and far less crowded.
The east side is also where Phuket Town sits, with the old town, local markets and many of the island’s best-known places to eat. Rassada Pier, the main departure point for ferries to Phi Phi and Krabi, is about ten minutes from town.
Things are changing here too. A recent article noted that new condominium and villa projects are moving into the centre and east of the island, as land near west coast beaches like Bang Tao and Kamala gets harder to find and more expensive. So I wanted to see what it’s like to stay on this side before everyone else finds out.
Bang Tao First, Then Koh Siray
I split a four-night trip in August. Two nights in Bang Tao, then two on Koh Siray.
Bang Tao is a pleasant place, and I want to be fair to it. It has good international restaurants and plenty of foreign residents, and it is still calmer than Patong. But it’s turned into a business and residential area, and traffic has grown since my last visit. Getting anywhere took longer than I expected, even in low season.
Koh Siray was a different story, and it started before I even arrived.
Getting to Koh Siray Takes One Short Bridge
When someone first suggested Koh Siray, I assumed it needed a boat. Koh means island in Thai, and I pictured a ferry and a timetable. Then my taxi drove through Phuket Town, crossed a bridge so short I nearly missed it, and we were on Koh Siray without any boat at all.
Right after the bridge, the road runs past a mangrove forest. Locals feed the monkeys bananas here, and you can see them jumping around in the trees on the right. The drive to the hotel passes small beaches with calm, flat water. I saw a few tourists, but mostly people going about their normal day. It feels like a place where people live, rather than a place built for visitors.
Phuket Town is close. A Bolt ride cost me around 120 baht and took about 12 minutes at night, or 15 to 20 minutes during the day.
Inside a Private Pool Villa at Sinae Phuket
Sinae Phuket sits on a hill, and reception is up a set of stairs. I arrived early, but the staff checked me in anyway, with a cold towel and a herbal welcome drink. They took my luggage, and a buggy drove me up to the villa.
I stayed in a Studio Ocean View Villa, which is 54 square metres with a king bed. It sits on an upper level, with another villa below. You see the sea the moment you open the door. The floors are wood, the walls mix wood and stone, and much of the furniture is bamboo. The room was cool when I walked in, and the windows open wide enough to let a real breeze through. There is a small desk corner, so I could work with the sea in front of me.
Out on the balcony, the private pool is on the left and looks straight out to sea. An outdoor bathtub sits on the right. The bathroom uses THANN amenities. The minibar soft drinks are free and get refilled when housekeeping comes, and the paid items cost less than I usually see at five-star resorts.
Sunrise swims and quiet nights
This is the moment I understood why the east side is worth the trip. I am an early riser, so on both mornings I was in the pool before sunrise, watching the sky change colour over the bay. You cannot get that on the west coast, where the sun goes the other way.
I skipped the pool in the afternoon heat and went back in at night, when the breeze picks up. You cannot see much in the dark, but it is completely silent. I never once heard another guest.
In daylight, the view takes in the Koh Siray mangroves, a few beaches and the islands of Koh Khai Nok, Koh Yao Yai and Koh Mai Thon. I could watch boats heading out toward Phi Phi. One thing to know: this coast is tidal, and at times during my stay the sea pulled back far.
What I Ate, On Site and in Town
Breakfast had a wide international spread, with vegetarian dishes and some Indian food too. For dinner at Sai Bistro and Bar, I ordered tom yum kung with rice, and one portion was plenty.
Hilltop Café sits at the top of the property and serves Starbucks coffee. I had a coffee and a croissant there. It gets busy with visitors, but the hotel keeps a section just for guests. The views are wide open, and a staff member pointed out where Phi Phi sits on the horizon.
In Phuket Town, I ate at small local places. I walked Soi Romanee, went to the Sunday walking street market on Thalang Road, and had the pork rice soup at Go Benz, which holds a Michelin Bib Gourmand.
What Did Not Work As Well at Sinae Phuket
The hill is the main drawback. Most trips around the property, including to the restaurant, need a buggy, and when the buggies are busy, you wait. You can walk, and it is fine during the day, but the steps are steep and harder at night. A faster buggy service would help. The hotel app does make other things easier, since you can book taxis and spa treatments through it.
Sinae is also building a second phase, due to finish in 2027. I heard construction for about an hour a day. It did not spoil anything, but you should know before you book.
Is the East Side of Phuket Right for You?
If you want a beach outside your door, stay on the west coast. The well-known beaches are a 30- to 40-minute drive from Koh Siray, with Karon and Rawai the nearest. You can go in the morning and be back for the evening. Closer by, Sunrise Beach is a small public beach six or seven minutes away. It is quiet, and a little café there serves beer and cocktails.
This side suits couples, honeymooners and families with children over twelve. I would not bring small children. The hill, the stairs and the unfenced private pools add up to too much to watch.
The Side of Phuket I Did Not Know I Was Missing
After all my trips here, I thought I had Phuket figured out. This one showed me how different the island feels depending on where you sleep. The west coast has the big beaches, and the crowds and traffic come with them. On the east side, I found calm water, sunrise over the bay and Phuket Town close enough for a last-minute dinner.
Neither side is better than the other, and they suit very different trips. If you want to be in the middle of things, the west coast will serve you well. If you want to slow down, try a few nights on the east side and drive over to the beaches when you feel like it. I went to Koh Siray expecting to need a boat, and all it took was a short bridge.
